The problem I had with the Nikon Speedlights I own is that the colour would change from one flash fire to another. And I wondered if this was also the case with the NEO 3.
| Full power | Half power | |
| 3000K | 2810K | 2809K |
| 5500K | 5745K | 7086K |
| 6500K | 7043K | 7060K |
| 10000K | 7021K | 7150K |
I’m glad to say that there was no problem with variation between flashes. What did surprise me was that the unit peaks at around the 7000K mark. I’m not sure at what kelvin point the NEO 3 starts to peak at full power. But at half power, 5100K gave me a reading of 5472K and after that all the readings were in the 7000s.
There is a possibility of user error here. I might not be using a setting which will make it right. But the reason I’m not going to look into this too much is that I will probably not be using the NEO 3 in flash mode. If I do need flash I will choose to use the Profoto B10.
In testing I didn’t have any problem using the Hedbox batteries over the one Rotolight provided. They do recommend using their own battery for flash but maybe because there are issues with certain brands. Use at your own risk I suppose as I wasn’t really pushing the light at all.
Will I be getting the larger AEOS 2 to complement this light? I don’t think I will. What I have found with the larger Profoto B10 Plus is that the bigger size and weight is a draw back. Working on my own, if I want multiple lights I need to keep the size and weight down for each item. There is nothing new that I would learn from owning an AEOS 2 as it has the same quality of light as the NEO 3.
YouTube suggested this video to me.
And it made me realise that most light created by the sun around us is both soft and hard. So owning one continuous soft light won’t give me very convincing set up. This is another reason for not getting another soft light. I will need a continuous hard light to achieve what I set out to do. And that is to learn how to create natural light using artificial lights.
patrickphotos.blog 